About Cotopaxi

Volcán Cotopaxi, located in Ecuador's Andes mountains, is one of the world's highest active volcanoes, towering 5.897 metres above sea level. Its near-perfect conical shape and snow-capped summit have made it a bucket-list destination for mountaineers from around the globe. Cotopaxi offers adventurers the rare opportunity to summit an active volcano while experiencing the raw beauty of the Andes.

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Geologically, Cotopaxi is a stratovolcano. Its last significant eruption occurred in 2015. As it remains active and closely monitored by scientists, the risk is well-managed, and climbing is allowed under safe conditions. This combination of natural power and accessibility makes Cotopaxi a unique destination for mountaineering enthusiasts from around the world.

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Although climbing Cotopaxi is dubbed a rather easier climb, it poses a physical challenge to everyone attempting to reach the summit. High altitudes and, therefore, low oxygen levels require good acclimatisation. Even though the route to the summit of Cotopaxi volcano is technically not difficult, it involves traversing glaciers including crevasses, requiring basic technical skills such as using crampons and ice axes. Furthermore, the climb is characterised by steep sections and ever-changing weather conditions, demanding, resilience, proper preparation, and a knowledgeable guide.

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💡 Tip: While Cotopaxi is a great entry into high-altitude mountaineering, it’s crucial to acclimate before climbing - more on this in the "Acclimatisation" section.

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For all of you seeking an unforgettable mountaineering experience, Cotopaxi offers the thrill of summiting a beautiful mountain, combined with the uniqueness of navigating an active volcano.

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Ready to take on the challenge of summiting an active volcano? 👉 Check out the best guided tours here and turn your dream into reality!

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How to get to Cotopaxi

Your journey to Cotopaxi most likely begins in Quito, Ecuador’s bustling capital and hub for international travellers. Situated at an altitude of around 2.850 metres, Quito is not only a gateway to the Andes but moreover an excellent location to start acclimatising to high altitudes.

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Getting to Quito by Air  🛫

Mariscal Sucre International Airport (UIO), located approximately 40 kilometres from the city centre, is the main airport serving Quito. It offers direct flights from major cities in North and South America as well as Europe. Popular routes include flights from Madrid, Miami, New York, and Bogotá. 👉 Find the best flights to Quito here.

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Getting to Quito by Bus 🚌

For those already in Ecuador or neighbouring countries, reaching Quito by bus is a cost-effective option. Ecuador has a well-connected network of intercity buses, and routes from cities like Guayaquil, Cuenca, and Baños to Quito are frequent and affordable. Travellers from Colombia or Peru can also find international bus services to Quito. Most buses arrive at the Quitumbe Terminal in the south of the city, from where you can easily access local transportation to your accommodation. 👉 Explore bus schedules and book your tickets here.

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Getting Around Quito

Once in Quito, you can easily navigate the city using taxis, ride-hailing apps, or the efficient public bus network. If you're planning to climb Cotopaxi, I would recommend spending a couple of days here to adjust to the altitude while exploring the city’s historic centre, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and surrounding sights. 👉 Book your stay in Quito, to acclimatise for your climb here.

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Getting to Cotopaxi National Park

Cotopaxi National Park is located about 60 kilometres south of Quito and is well-connected by road. Depending on your budget and preferences, you have several options to reach the park.

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By Private Transport

Hiring a private driver or taxi is the most convenient way to get to Cotopaxi National Park. The journey takes around 1.5 hours and allows for flexibility in stopping for photos or refreshments.

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By Public Bus

For budget-conscious travellers, public buses departing from Quito’s southern terminal (Quitumbe) are a viable option. Buses heading towards Latacunga or Ambato can drop you off near the park entrance. From there, you’ll need to hire a local taxi to reach deeper into the park. This option is more for adventurous and experienced travellers. Also speaking good Spanish is a big advantage when going by public bus.

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By Guided Tour

Most guided climbing packages include transportation to and from Quito, making this the easiest and my opinion best option to get to Cotopaxi National Park. Also, some hotels and hostels in Quito can help you arrange a guided tour including transportation. I stayed in the Secret Garden during my time in Quito and organised my climb, accommodation in the Cotopaxi National Park and transport from there and would do it all over again since it was the most comfortable and straightforward option.

👉 Consider this guided climbing tour including transportation for your adventure.

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Where to stay in Quito | Cotopaxi National Park

Finding the right accommodation is essential to ensure a comfortable and well-prepared Cotopaxi climb. Depending on your preferences and itinerary, you can choose to stay in Quito, around the Cotopaxi National Park, or even at a high-altitude mountain lodge. The night or evening before the climb is, however, almost always spent around Cotopaxi National Park.

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If you’re booking with a tour operator or climbing agency, accommodation is normally included in your package. Depending on the price and availability, your accommodation for the night before the climb will probably be a lodge located inside Cotopaxi National Park or Refugio José Ribas, a mountain hut on the slope of Cotopaxi volcano.

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Staying in Quito

Spending your first few nights in Quito is ideal for acclimatisation and exploring the city. Quito offers a wide range of accommodations, from budget hostels to high-end hotels.

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Recommended Accommodations in Quito

• Secret Garden Quito: A popular choice for travellers looking to acclimatise, this hostel offers a friendly atmosphere, affordable rooms, and stunning rooftop views of the city from its rooftop terrace. 👉 Book your stay at Secret Garden Quito here.
• Socialtel Quito: A great mid-range option with a vibrant social atmosphere and coworking spaces. 👉 Book your stay at Socialtel Quito here.
• Hotel Casa Alquimia: A charming boutique hotel in Quito's historic centre, offering a blend of comfort, character, and personalised service at a more accessible price point. 👉 Look for a room at Hotel Casa Alquimia here.

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Staying in Cotopaxi National Park

If you prefer to stay closer to Cotopaxi, several lodges and haciendas around Cotopaxi National Park provide an immersive Andean experience. Staying here allows you to enjoy stunning views of Cotopaxi while preparing for your climb.

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Recommended Lodges in Cotopaxi National Park

• Secret Garden Cotopaxi: This highly recommended lodge is managed by the same team as Secret Garden Quito, offering a great base for climbers. Situated just outside the national park, it provides stunning views of the volcano, delicious meals, and cosy rooms. 👉 Book your stay at Secret Garden Cotopaxi here.
• Tambopaxi Lodge: Located inside the national park, this lodge is perfect for climbers. It offers warm beds, hearty meals, and unbeatable proximity to Cotopaxi. 👉 Search for a room at Tambopaxi Lodge here.

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👉 Check out my Google Maps Locations for Quito and its Surroundings (including Cotopaxi National Park) for more accommodation options and all the best spots.

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💡 Tip: Secret Garden Quito and Cotopaxi can organise your entire climbing experience, from your stay to guides and transport from Quito to the national park, making it a very comfortable option. Find all the info regarding the climb and transport here.

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José Ribas Refuge (Refugio José Ribas)

If you’re tackling the climb, your final night will likely be spent at the José Ribas Refuge (around 4.800 metres), the starting point for most summit attempts. The refuge offers dormitory-style accommodations with basic facilities. If you’re not booking with a climbing agency, make sure to reserve your spot early, especially during high season. 👉 You can inquire via WhatsApp. 

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Acclimatisation

Proper acclimatisation is essential when preparing to climb Cotopaxi. At nearly 6.000 metres above sea level, the altitude presents one of the greatest challenges for climbers. Taking the time to adapt your body to the reduced oxygen levels will significantly improve your chances of a successful and enjoyable ascent. In the following, I share some of my key strategies and tips to help you acclimatise effectively.

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Spent Time at High Altitudes

To give your body time to adjust, spend several days at moderate altitudes before heading to Cotopaxi National Park. Quito, at 2.850 metres, is an excellent place to start. If possible, plan to stay in the capital for at least 2–3 days upon arrival. During this time, explore Quito’s historic centre or its surrounding areas to gently introduce your body to the higher altitude.

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💡 Tip: Begin your acclimatisation by spending time in Quito and doing some walking tours in the city. 👉 Find the best walking tour in Quito here.

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If you’ve already spent time in other high-altitude regions, such as Peru or Bolivia, you might find the adjustment period easier, but it’s still important not to rush. Slow acclimatisation reduces the risk of altitude sickness and allows for a more enjoyable climbing experience as well as better chances to reach the summit.

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Move Slowly and Stay Hydrated

While acclimatising, listen to your body and avoid pushing yourself too hard. Move at a relaxed pace and take regular breaks to prevent overexertion. Hydration is another critical factor - drink plenty of water or electrolyte-rich beverages to combat the dehydrating effects of high altitudes.

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💡 Tip: Pack a reusable water bottle and hydration tablets for your trip. 👉 Find recommended hydration gear here.

Do Acclimatisation Hikes

Acclimatisation isn’t just about staying at high altitudes - it’s about gently exerting your body while avoiding overexertion. Take advantage of Quito’s proximity to nature by going on short hikes or walks that combine mild physical activity with stunning scenery.

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Hike Up Rucu Pichincha

Take advantage of Quito’s cable car, TeleféricQo, by heading up to around 4.000 metres in a gondola and hiking the trail to Rucu Pichincha’s summit at 4.698 metres from there. This hike offers breathtaking views of Quito and a great opportunity to acclimatise while testing your endurance at high altitude. However, be aware that there are two options to get to the summit, that is two routes which separate quite close before the summit. One option is the so-called Paso de la Muerte (“death passage”), which is an exposed ridge.

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💡 Tip: If you’re not experienced in climbing and exposed territories, I would recommend choosing the normal route (and avoiding Paso de la Muerte), which involves no climbing but only hiking.

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Take a Day Trip to Otavalo and Laguna Cuicocha

Otavalo, a charming town in northern Ecuador, is renowned for its vibrant market and rich indigenous culture. The Otavalo Market is one of the largest and most famous markets in South America, with the main market day being on Saturdays. However, smaller markets operate throughout the week, with Wednesdays and Saturdays being the best days to visit for the widest selection and lively atmosphere. At the market, you’ll find handcrafted textiles, jewellery, leather goods, ceramics, and more – perfect for picking up a cool souvenir.

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Nearby, Cuicocha Lagoon, a stunning crater lake situated at over 3.000 metres, is another must-visit. The hike around the lake takes approximately 4 hours and offers breathtaking views of the Andes. It is a great way to enjoy the natural beauty of Ecuador and its stunning Calderas, lakes inside volcano craters while adapting to higher elevation levels to prepare for your Cotopaxi climb.

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How to Get to Otavalo from Quito

• By bus: Otavalo is about 2 hours north of Quito. Regular buses run from the Terminal Terreste de Carcelén in northern Quito, with fares costing around $3-$4 for one direction. 👉 Search for your bus ticket here.
• By private transport: Getting from Quito to Otavalo on the Panamericana Norte via private transport is straightforward and takes around 1.5 hours.
• By tour: Guided tours to Otavalo and Cuicocha Lagoon are a convenient way to explore both destinations in one day. 👉 Check out this recommended one-day tour from Quito here.

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💡 Tip: Including hikes like Rucu Pichincha, Laguna Cuicocha, and Volcano Sincholagua in your itinerary to prepare your body for the physical demands of climbing Cotopaxi is essential for a successful summit attempt.

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Acclimatisation and Preparation Hikes in Cotopaxi National Park

In addition to Rucu Pichincha and Cuicocha Lagoon, Cotopaxi National Park offers excellent hiking and climbing opportunities to prepare for summiting Cotopaxi. 👉 Browse guided acclimatisation in Cotopaxi National Park hikes here.

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Hiking Pasochoa and Sincholagua

One good preparation hike is to the summit of Pasochoa, an extinct volcano standing at 4.200 metres. This trek is not technical at all but still offers a satisfying challenge. The trail winds through picturesque grasslands and forested areas before opening up to sweeping vistas at the top. The hike takes around 4 hours and is particularly well-suited for first acclimatisation.

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Another great option is Sincholagua, a striking peak that reaches 4.873 metres. This challenging trek provides stunning views of Cotopaxi Volcano and the surrounding Andean landscapes. The hike, which typically takes around 6 hours (for both ways), is perfect for building endurance and testing your tolerance to higher altitudes. However, it’s worth noting that the trails can be difficult to navigate, so hiring a guide is highly recommended.

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👉 Secret Garden Cotopaxi offers a few day hikes that will prepare you for your summit push, you can check them out here.

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Recognising Symptoms of Altitude Sickness

Even with proper acclimatisation, altitude sickness can affect anyone. Symptoms range from headaches, nausea, and dizziness to very severe and life-threatening conditions like high-altitude pulmonary oedema (HAPE) or high-altitude cerebral oedema (HACE). If you notice any of these (later) symptoms, it’s crucial to descend to a lower altitude immediately and seek medical attention if needed.

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How Long to Acclimatise

While every individual’s body reacts differently, most climbers benefit from spending at least 3-5 days at moderate altitudes (> 2.500m) before attempting Cotopaxi - the longer the better.

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💡 Tip: Incorporating the "climb high, sleep low" strategy - ascending to higher elevations during the day (e.g. Rucu Pichincha) and returning to a lower altitude to rest (e.g. Quito) - can further aid the acclimatisation process.

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By following these tips and taking the time to prepare, you’ll be better equipped to handle the challenges of high-altitude mountaineering and increase your chances of successfully summiting Cotopaxi.

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Disclaimer: This information is based on personal experience and general guidelines. The tips I’ve shared are meant to help, but they don’t replace professional advice. Remember that everyone’s body reacts differently to high altitudes, and what works for one person may not work for another. For medical advice or if you’re unsure about your health, consult a healthcare professional before attempting a high-altitude climb.

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Guide & Gear for Cotopaxi

Ascending Cotopaxi requires proper guidance and specialised equipment to ensure safety and maximise your chances of reaching the summit. 

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Hiring a Guide for Cotopaxi

Climbing Cotopaxi without a certified guide is usually not permitted (unless you are a mountain guide yourself), as the Ecuadorian Ministry of Environment mandates that climbers must be accompanied by a certified guide to enter the glaciated areas of the volcano. Control checkpoints enforce this rule, and attempting to climb without a guide can result in fines or being turned back, not to mention the high risk of climbing an active nearly 6.000-metre-high volcano on your own.

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The terrain involves glaciers, crevasses, and steep inclines, therefore causing the need for an experienced guide. Certified guides are knowledgeable about the mountain, glacier, and crevasses and equipped with the expertise to navigate these challenges and respond to emergencies.

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💡 Tip: If you are staying at Secret Garden Cotopaxi (or Secret Garden Quito), they can arrange your guided climb, taking care of everything from booking with the climbing operator, over transport and acclimatisation hikes in the Cotopaxi National Park. 👉 Check out their Cotopaxi climbing packages here.

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How and Where to Find a Guide in Quito

Numerous reputable companies in and around Quito offer guided climbs to Cotopaxi, many of which include transport, meals, and gear rental, thus providing you with several ways to book your Cotopaxi climbing tour, each catering to different budgets and preferences.

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Local Tour Operators in Quito

Many operators based in Quito specialise in Cotopaxi climbs, offering customised packages that often include transport, gear rental, meals, and accommodation. Booking directly with a local provider can give you flexibility in tailoring your itinerary and the trust of physically booking with an operator on-site.

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All-Inclusive Stays

Accommodation options like Secret Garden (Cotopaxi & Quito) not only provide a great base for acclimatisation but also arrange full climbing packages. These often include acclimatisation hikes, transportation to the trailhead, guides, accommodation for the night of climbing, gear and meals.

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Online Platforms

For a seamless experience, online platforms like GetYourGuide or Viator allow you to browse and book trusted climbing tours in advance. They almost always include reviews, clear pricing, and cancellation policies, giving you peace of mind and allowing you to book everything in advance to have a secure spot and hassle-free time when arriving in Quito. 👉 Explore certified Cotopaxi climbing tours here.

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💡 Personal Experience: Booking your guide in advance (either online or via your accommodation in Quito) is a great way to reduce stress before your climb and ensure everything runs smoothly.

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Costs for a Guide

Guided climbs can cost between €250 - €850 USD per person, depending on the package. The cost depends on factors like group size, gear rental, and accommodation quality. This price usually includes transport, meals, accommodation, and gear rental. While it may seem expensive, this price ensures safety, compliance with regulations, and a more enjoyable experience

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💡 Personal Experience: It’s worth investing in a reputable guide service for peace of mind and a better overall experience.

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What to Expect from Your Guide

• Pre-Climb Briefing: Guides will provide detailed instructions and a safety briefing before the climb.
• Acclimatisation Support: Many packages include acclimatisation hikes to prepare for the altitude.
• Technical Support: Guides will support you in using the climbing equipment, such as crampons and ice axes and will rope you up, while traversing the glacier.
• Post-Climb Debrief: Most guided tours include a celebratory meal (breakfast) before the return transport.

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Essential Gear for Cotopaxi

Having the right gear is just as important as hiring an experienced guide for a successful ascent on Cotopaxi. The high altitude, unpredictable weather, and glacial terrain require specific mountaineering equipment to increase your safety and chances for success. Here’s a detailed look at the essential gear you’ll need for the climb to the summit of Volcano Cotopaxi:

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• Mountaineering boots (suitable for crampons)
• Crampons
• (One) ice axe
• Gaiters
• Cilmbing helmet
• Headlamp
• Harness and ropes (typically provided by guides)
• Hat, gloves and warm layers (thermal underwear, thermal socks, fleece jacket, base layers)
• Waterproof outerwear
• (Polarized) sunglasses,
• Sunscreen (with high SPF),
• Backpack (min. 40 litres)

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💡 Personal Experience: Most tour operators include gear rental in their packages. However, keep in mind that some equipment, such as warm layers or personal items, might still need to be brought by yourself.

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Hydration and Nutrition

High-altitude climbing can be extremely taxing on your body, and staying hydrated and fueled is crucial for your performance and well-being. Before starting your ascent, be sure to stock up on snacks and hydration. Usually, guided tours stop by a supermarket or small shop on the way to the refuge or lodge where you spent the evening before the ascent, for you to shop for energy bars, fruit, sweets, water and soft drinks that are great short-term energy suppliers for the climb.

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💡 Tip: It’s a good idea to bring a thermos or insulated water bottle to keep your drinks from freezing in cold temperatures. 👉 Find the best for you here.

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Climbing Cotopaxi: Your Journey to the Summit of an Active Volcano

The climb to the summit of Cotopaxi is typically a two-day adventure. This timeline allows climbers to ascend gradually, prepare and rest overnight at a high-altitude refuge or lodge, and begin the summit push early in the morning for the best weather and climbing conditions. In the following, I provide you with a breakdown of what to expect.

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Day 1: Arrival at the Refuge or Lodge and Preparation

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⚠️ Info: The following two-day itinerary is based on staying at Refugio José Ribas for the night before the ascent.

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Travelling to Cotopaxi National Park

On the first day, climbers usually travel from Quito or their accommodation near the park to Cotopaxi National Park. Depending on your tour operator and the package you booked, you’ll either be staying in Refugio José Ribas or a lodge or hacienda near the main parking lot at around 4.600 metres.

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💡 Personal Experience: Since Refugio José Ribas was completely booked out for the night in which I wanted to summit Cotopaxi, I had to stay in Tambopaxi Lodge, a nice lodge sitting at approximately 3.750 metres and just about 20 away from the parking lot by car at around 4.600 metres. Staying here or at another similar lodge, compared to Refugio José Ribas, has advantages and disadvantages.

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Advantages of Staying at Refugio José Ribas

• Proximity to the Glacier: Located at 4.864 metres, the refuge is just a short hike from the start of the glacier, significantly reducing the time and effort needed for the summit push. This makes it the most convenient option for you if you’re looking to minimise exertion before the ascent.
• Authentic Mountaineering Experience: Staying at the refuge immerses you in the mountain-climbing atmosphere, surrounded by other adventurers preparing for the same challenge.
• Maximises Acclimatisation: Resting at such a high altitude (above 4.800m) can help acclimatise your body further, provided you’ve prepared adequately in the days prior. On the other side, however, the high altitude of the refuge can cause altitude sickness symptoms to worsen if not adequately acclimatised.

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Advantages of Staying at Tambopaxi Lodge (or Similar)

• Comfortable Accommodation: Tambopaxi Lodge offers private rooms, cosy bedding, hot showers, and a relaxing atmosphere, providing a much more comfortable stay than the refuge.
• Lower Altitude: At 3.750 metres, the lodge’s altitude is less extreme, making it a better option for those prone to altitude sickness. However, you have to cover more metres in elevation in less time, which can cause problems and make the overall climb longer and more exhausting.

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Hiking to José Ribas Refuge

From the parking lot, it’s a short but steep hike to Refugio José Ribas at 4.864 metres. This walk is the first part of the climb and a good opportunity to test how your body responds to the altitude.

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💡 Tip: Move slowly, drink plenty of water, and take breaks. The key is to conserve energy for the summit push.

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Settling in at the Refuge

The José Ribas Refuge serves as the base camp for Cotopaxi climbs. It’s equipped with dormitory-style accommodations, basic meals, and shared facilities. After checking in, you’ll have time to rest, enjoy a meal, and prepare your gear for the longer part of the ascent in the early morning.

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Pre-Climb Briefing

Your guide will hold a briefing in the late afternoon or evening to go over the climbing route, safety protocols, and the use of technical equipment like crampons and ice axes. This is also the time to ask any last-minute questions.

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Early Rest

Most climbers head to bed around 7 PM to get a few hours of sleep before the early morning start.

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💡 Tip: The refuge and lodges can be noisy due to shared spaces, so consider bringing earplugs for better rest.

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Day 2: Summit Push and Descent

Pre-Dawn Start

The climb starts from around midnight to 1 AM. This timing ensures that climbers reach the summit around sunrise, when the weather is typically the clearest, and the snow conditions on the glacier are most stable. Before you start your journey on the mountain, you’ll have a light breakfast in the refuge or lodge, ensuring you’re fuelled up for the strains ahead.

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Ascending the Glacier

The first part of the climb involves trekking over volcanic scree before reaching the glacier which takes around 30 minutes to an hour from Refugio José Ribas. Here, you’ll put on your crampons and begin the technical ascent. In some sections, the climb is steep, with gradients ranging from 30–50 degrees. While ascending on the glacier, you’re roped in with your guide and 1 to 2 other climbers in one rope. During the climb, you pass crevasses, seracs, and snow fields, with your guide navigating the best route to keep you as safe as possible. A little bit higher up on the route around 30-60 minutes from the summit there is a short rope-secured section which is pretty steep and exposed, but due to the fixed rope, should not be too much of a problem for climbers with at least some kind of experience.

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Reaching the Summit

After climbing for around 6-7 hours you’ll reach the summit of Cotopaxi. Reaching the summit at 5.897 metres is an incredible feeling, providing you with adrenaline, pride and breathtaking views of Ecuadors Cordillera Real as well as the crater of Cotopaxi’s active volcano. On clear days, you can also spot neighbouring peaks like Chimborazo and Antisana, something that I was sadly not rewarded with. You’ll spend around 15–20 minutes at the summit to enjoy the view and take photos before beginning the descent.

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Returning to Your Base

After gathering your belongings, and waiting for all members of your group at Refugio José Ribas you’ll hike back to the parking lot and typically be driven back to Quito or your accommodation around the park.

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💡 Personal Experience: Since I started at Tambopaxi Lodge, we went back there from the parking lot, enjoyed a hot shower and had a second breakfast in the lodge, which was a great way to come down and a nice end to the adventure of summiting Cotopaxi volcano.

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👉 Ready to take on Cotopaxi now? Book your guided ascent here.

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Final Thoughts on Climbing Cotopaxi

Climbing Cotopaxi is a once-in-a-lifetime adventure that combines physical challenge, breathtaking scenery, and a profound sense of accomplishment. Whether you’re navigating the glacier at dawn or gazing into the depths of its iconic crater from the summit, this experience is as rewarding as it is unforgettable.

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Success on Cotopaxi, however, relies on careful planning. From acclimatisation to choosing the right accommodation and guide, every detail matters when climbing at this high altitude. Take your time to prepare, respect the mountain’s power, and embrace the journey.

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With the right mindset and preparation, summiting Cotopaxi isn’t just about reaching the top - it’s about discovering your own strength and resilience along the way.